I have lived and worked in the Chamonix Valley for years, and one of the questions I get asked most often by my clients is what they should do during their stay. The answer is always the same: how much time have you got? Because this valley has so much packed into it that you could visit a dozen times and still not do everything.
Whether you are here in winter for the skiing, in summer for the hiking, or any time in between, here is my personal guide to the best things to do in and around Chamonix.
This is the one thing I tell absolutely everyone to do, regardless of the season. The Aiguille du Midi cable car takes you from the centre of Chamonix up to 3,842 metres in about 20 minutes. The views from the top are simply staggering. You are standing among the highest peaks in the Alps with a panoramic view of Mont Blanc, and on a clear day you can see across into Italy and Switzerland. There is a glass-floored viewing platform called Step Into the Void that is not for the faint-hearted, but the regular terraces are breathtaking enough. In summer, this is also the starting point for experienced mountaineers heading for the summit of Mont Blanc, so there is always an incredible atmosphere of adventure up there.
The Montenvers rack railway is a charming little train that takes you up from Chamonix to the Mer de Glace, the largest glacier in France. It is a beautiful journey through the trees, and once you arrive you can visit the ice cave that is carved fresh into the glacier each year. It is a sobering experience too, as the markers on the mountainside show how much the glacier has retreated over the decades. For families with children, this is a wonderful outing that combines a fun train ride with genuinely awe-inspiring natural scenery.
If you are visiting in winter, you already know that Chamonix is one of the world's great ski destinations. What makes it special is the variety. Les Grands Montets above Argentiere is famous for its steep, challenging terrain and reliable snow. Brevent-Flegere on the sunny side of the valley offers spectacular views of Mont Blanc while you ski and is brilliant for intermediate skiers. Les Houches at the bottom of the valley has gentler slopes that are perfect for families and beginners. And if you fancy something completely different, you can take the Mont Blanc Express train to the neighbouring resorts of Vallorcine or even across the border into Switzerland. A week is genuinely not enough to ski everything here.
Summer hiking in the Chamonix Valley is world-class. The most famous hike in the area is probably the walk up to Lac Blanc, a stunning glacial lake at around 2,350 metres that gives you a postcard-perfect reflection of the Mont Blanc massif on a still day. It is a proper mountain hike that will take a few hours, but the reward at the top is worth every step. For something gentler, the valley floor has beautiful walking paths along the river, and you can take various cable cars up to higher starting points and walk down. The Tour du Mont Blanc, which circles the entire massif through France, Italy, and Switzerland, passes right through the valley if you are looking for a multi-day adventure.
If you have ever fancied throwing yourself off a mountain with a parachute strapped to your back, Chamonix is the place to do it. Tandem paragliding flights run throughout the summer and you launch from high on the mountainside, soaring over the valley with views that are almost impossible to describe. Several of my clients have done it during their stay and come back absolutely buzzing. It is one of those once-in-a-lifetime experiences that the valley does brilliantly well.
One of the great advantages of Chamonix's location is that you are just a short drive through the Mont Blanc tunnel from Courmayeur in Italy. It is a completely different atmosphere on the Italian side. The town is charming, the pizza and pasta are outstanding, and the shopping is wonderful. Many of my clients take a day to cross the border, have lunch in Courmayeur, and come back in the afternoon. It makes for a lovely change of scenery and reminds you just how special this corner of the Alps is, sitting right at the meeting point of France, Italy, and Switzerland.
The town of Chamonix itself is worth spending time in. The pedestrianised centre is full of shops, cafes, and restaurants. There are excellent outdoor equipment shops if you need gear, lovely boutiques, and plenty of terraces where you can sit with a coffee and watch the world go by with Mont Blanc towering above you. The weekly market is worth visiting too, with local produce, cheeses, and cured meats.
Beyond the big highlights, there is so much else to do here. In summer, river rafting on the Arve is great fun for groups and families. The Chamonix golf course sits in an incredible setting with mountain views in every direction. There are several spas in the valley if you want a day of relaxation after all the activity, and I always recommend treating yourself to a massage. I work with a wonderful mobile massage therapist who can come to your chalet, which you can arrange through my services page.
In winter beyond skiing, there is snowshoeing through the forests, ice climbing for the adventurous, and the Chamonix Christmas markets in December are absolutely magical, with wooden chalets selling mulled wine, local crafts, and seasonal treats.
Whatever you get up to during the day, the best part is coming home to your chalet in the evening knowing that a delicious meal is being prepared for you. No need to shower quickly and rush out to a restaurant booking. No need to figure out where can seat your whole group at short notice. Just relax, pour a glass of wine, and let me take care of dinner.
If you are planning a trip to the Chamonix Valley and want to make the most of it without worrying about the food, get in touch. I would love to hear about your plans and start thinking about what to cook for you.